In this interview, Ben Heinkel, co-founder of the Ethical Clothing search engine, speaks with Marie Gutierrez Hurtado, the founder of UMA Intimates, a sustainable lingerie brand based in Barcelona, Spain. This conversation sheds light on the challenges and triumphs of creating sustainable lingerie, a task notably more difficult than other types of clothing, and aims to bring exposure to small, new sustainable brands emerging from Spain and selling across Europe.
Interview with Marie Gutierrez Hurtado
1. Why did you start UMA Intimates?
UMA was born like this: I attended a weekend workshop in Collserola (mountains behind Barcelona) on “forest meditation”. In the silence, I heard my voice: “You are going to make sustainable, very sexy, and beautiful panties. Sign up for the course you saw two months ago.”
My interest in sustainability was my passion. I dared to write to Brenda Chávez, telling her how much her book “Your Consumption Can Change the World” had influenced me. I asked her if she knew Gema Gómez and about her course. Gema is the pioneer of sustainable fashion in Spain, she said.
We started developing the project and faced several challenges: “In Catalonia, you will not find a workshop that makes fine lingerie. We are experts and do not know of any.”
“In Spain, there are no suppliers of sustainable fabrics for lingerie. We have more than 10 years of experience, and we advise you to look outside Spain.”
“We do not have sustainable materials or elastics. We have a budding project, but for now, we have nothing.”
We would have to search more, better, and elsewhere.
I dared to write to Orsola de Castro and she replied! And offered to give me a mentoring session!
Two years later, we built a local and ethical production chain.
2. Is it more difficult to make sustainable lingerie than other types of clothing?
Definitely. It is mainly necessary to consider the type of fabric and the manufacturing.
The fabric is one of the most important pillars because, in addition to meeting a certain quality appropriate for making underwear, the material with which the fabric is made must be considered as it covers the intimate parts of the woman.
The manufacturing of the patterns is complex due to the variety of sizes and cups and the investment it entails.
There is an investment for a range of sizes for “normative” bodies. And there is a greater investment to develop sizes for larger sizes, which means that not all companies can reach all sizes from the start.
One of my goals is to invest in larger sizes which do not vary as much, nor require as much investment for production.
3. What are your choices for materials? Why these materials? Where do you get them from?
Most of our suppliers are Catalan, allowing us to practice a local economy and minimize our negative impact. Our fabrics are currently of Italian origin, for the sole reason that the quality and design are far superior to what we can find here in Spain.
4. What do you think about sustainable certifications like GOTS/OEKO-TEX/Fairtrade and others? Do you have any? Why or why not?
UMA has only applied for the ETHICAL TIME certification because it was an affordable investment valid in Spain and Europe.
All these certifications are an investment that puts pressure on the finances of a company trying to establish itself in the market. UMA decides not to apply for these certifications because that investment can be directed toward growing the business.
5. How much time do you dedicate to evangelizing the benefits of sustainable clothing? Is it still an uphill battle?
It is important and essential to provide all information easily to the consumer about what they are buying. Providing transparent information about the production chain to the consumer should be the norm.
Regarding responsible consumption, I find that today, the information and self-education, as well as the visibility of sustainability and responsible consumption, are practically ingrained in society. From here, in my opinion, a fair price (Fair Trade) is not always an affordable price, and it is a personal commitment of the consumer that does not have to be black or white. Everyone does what they can with what they have, and sometimes these consumption choices can be responsible and other times less so.
6. Finally, what learning would you like to share with other entrepreneurs thinking of starting with sustainable clothing?
The learning I would share with myself five years ago and with anyone starting is:
That the infatuation with your project and the passion for creating an ethical company does not distract you from acquiring and mastering a business and sales mentality. Without sales, you will not be able to do anything you dream of doing. Studying and focusing on sales is as important as focusing on your company’s mission.
Final Thoughts
Marie Gutierrez Hurtado’s journey with UMA Intimates highlights the determination and innovation required to create a sustainable clothing brand. Despite the challenges, her commitment to ethical practices and local production sets a significant example in the sustainable fashion industry.
Her insights offer valuable lessons for aspiring entrepreneurs and reinforce the importance of balancing passion with business acumen. As consumers, supporting such initiatives can drive the change towards a more sustainable future in fashion.
